Andys Real Guide to Thailand

Thailand and its neighbours.

Thailand borders four countries, Malaysia, Cambodia, Burma(Myanmar), and Laos. Today's borders are primarily a result of meddling by the colonial powers back in the 19th century - primarily the British and French.

Some History

Prior to European involvement in the region, the areas on what are now borders tended to be ill-defined and largely left outside of the tight control of the monarchs of the region. The majority of what is now Cambodia was under the control of the Siamese kings. Laos didn't exist as a state. Only the borders a of Vietnam now run similar to their historical lines.

Whilst it wasn't obvious at the time, the only real threat to Siamese sovereignty ("Thailand" after 1939) came from the French. France began the conquest of Vietnam in the 1850's chiefly to gain access to Chinese trade. Later they pushed west subjugating Cambodia and the weak states that now form Laos. The close of the 19^th century saw skirmeshes between Thai and French military forces.

Thai sovereignty came under serious threat in the early years of the 20^th century by the French in the east and the British in the south. Choosing to avoid the military conflicts that had seen neighbouring countries fall to the colonial powers, Siams' king Chulalongkorn (1868-1910) chose to preserve the country's independence by placating both powers. By 1910 Siam had ceded territory on the Malayan peninsula to Britain and all of western Cambodia to France. Those borders remain largely unchanged to this day.

Note: King Chulalongkorn, informally known as "King number 5", is a highly revered figure in Thailand. You will encounter pictures and statues of him everywhere. This is same king depicted in the movies "The King and I", and "Anna and the King". Incidently, both movies are banned in the country - seen as being disrespectful...

The current situation

[ On May 8^th 1939 the country officially changed it's name from Siam to Thailand. ]

Whilst Thailand's borders are now clearly defined (though not undisputed) there remain many of the traditional ties between the people of the region. These are reflected in the political and military situation on the ground. For example, Thais can cross into Laos and Cambodia using only their National ID card, and whilst access for them is free to Cambodia, the Laos government charges 100baht.

The borders with Laos and Malaysia can be described as "professional" grade, the formalities being familiar to anyone used to going through international airport.

Be aware that none of the border posts are 24hr affairs. Openning times are typically 0700 to 1700.

Crossing into Laos/Burma/Cambodia - Money

All these countries charge foreigners (westerners actually) for the dubious honour of entering their country. They could I believe learn a lot from the Thai and Malaysian governments which have vastly greater numbers of tourists and do not charge.

All accept payment in either U.S. Dollars or Thai Baht. There seems to be little relationship between the Dollar and Baht cost. For example Laos currently ( 20/12/03 ) charges $30 or 1500 Baht, which at currently exchange rates make it $7.5 cheaper to pay in Dollars. Tip: try to take small dollar bills, border posts rarely carry change.....

Laos:

Probably the main crossing into Laos is via Nong Khai where after completing exit formalities a 20baht bus ride will take you over the Mekong river via the Friendship bridge. Entry into Laos costs Westerners $30 (US) or 1500 Thai baht, you'll also need a photo.

Photo taken from Nong Khai Mekong River Commision

Once in you are just 20km away from the Laos capital Vietenne. Few signs of French influence remain - a few French shuttered houses and the 1/3rd scale copy of the Champs Elysee in the centre of the city.

You might want to consider taking some US dollars with you into Laos. Don't bother brushing up on your French however - English is the second language, when you find somebody who can speak a second language.

Cambodia

Cambodian visas are available on a arrival and cost $20. You need to provide 1 photo.

Burma:
Thailands' relationship with Burma (Myarmar) stands own in a category of its own, and can be summed up in one word - hostile. Historically Burma and Thailand have fought may wars over territory, generally with Burma gaining the upper hand. Today, many border areas are disputed, with these sometimes resulting in military skirmishes.

The government controlled media in Rangoon regularly run slur campaigns slating the Thai Royal family, with the Thai military responding in kind via their radio broadcast stations. The few crossing points are frequently closed and the atmosphere can generally be described as wary.

Compared to Laos, Cambodia and Malaysia there is little (legal) trade between Thailand and Burma. Drugs trafficking aside, Burma offers a ready market to criminal gangs in Thailand specialising in luxury cars. These are often stolen to order in Thailand and Malaysia and driven to waiting customers - often the Burmese military.

Thai-Burma Border update: As of 13th October 2002, Thai/Burmese border crossings are now open to all. Shortly after the openning I crossed from Mae Sai (nr. Chang Rai) and spent half a day shopping. Visa situation is simple but unusual, key points;

• 1-Day pass into Burma costs 5USD (or 250Baht). You cannot leave the town you enter, and must depart before the crossing closes.
• For the 1-day pass you are expected to leave your passport at the Burmese border. You are given a receipt which you must present when collecting it.
• Longer pass (I think 14 days) costs 10 USD. There are some restrictions on movement, sorry no details.
• At Mae Sai, the immigration office, where the Thai's stamp you as exiting Thailand, is 2.5km south of the border crossing. Lends itself to some curious possiblities..... That's Thailand!